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Posts Tagged ‘pearls’

“The only real failure in life is one not learned from.”
Anthony J. D’Angelo, The College Blue Book

Ah, graduation. A lot of hard work, time, talent, money and drive have led to this point: a milestone that will be celebrated, photographed and remembered forever. Whether from high school, college, law school, medical school, or what have you, graduation is a wonderful time of excitement and change.

How to mark the occasion? You can always write a check. (What new graduate doesn’t need money?) Before you whip out your wallet, however, remember that cash is practical, yet very impersonal. Because you’re reading this, it’s a good guess that the graduate is a special woman in your life, she worked hard to get where she is, and she deserves a graduation gift that is truly memorable.

How about something memorable, practical, meaningful and beautiful? Try pearls.

Pearl jewelry—whether pearl studs, a pearl pendant or a beautiful pearl strand—is a classic and wonderful addition to any woman’s jewelry box. Whether she’s heading off to college, interviewing for jobs, about to embark on a career, or planning a wedding, the recent graduate can wear pearl jewelry for instant polish. Added bonus: She’ll remember you every time she wears them.

Which pearls to choose
Pearls come in many beautiful styles, shapes and designs, but for graduation, a simple classic style that will stand the test of time is best. (They don’t call them staples for nothing.) Because classic pearls are so popular, there are a variety of options from which to choose. The following are classics she’ll reach for again and again.

• Pearl stud earrings: The great thing about pearl studs is that they go with everything. Round, white pearls with a rosé overtone flatter most skin types, and make a wonderful addition to any jewelry box. Some stores even carry pearl studs for non-pierced ears.
• 16 inch pearl strand: A matched pearl strand is a jewelry staple for a reason: it’s a classic—not to mention a no-brainer accessory that a woman can reach for to instantly add polish to an outfit. Shorter strands worn closer to the throat draw attention to the wearer’s face and skin; with their dewy complexions, young women look fantastic in pearl chokers. This style sits close to the throat and looks great with a business suit, v-neck sweater, tee-shirt or open-collared dress shirt.
• 18 inch pearl strand: This slightly more versatile, “princess” length necklace can be worn with most any neckline, and will serve the graduate well throughout her life. The princess length is a very popular choice for a great reason: it works well with everything from turtlenecks to sweaters, business suits, dress shirts, and more.
• pearl pendant: A pearl pendant necklace featuring a single, large pearl is a great option that can be worn with many different styles. Choose a thin sterling silver or white gold chain for a modern look.
• pearl bracelet: A perfect complement to a bold watch, and slightly more affordable than a pearl necklace, a pearl bracelet adds polish and class.
• pearl ring: A pearl ring can make quite a bold and sophisticated statement, especially when the ring features a single, large pearl. The only downside to buying a ring is that you need to know the graduate’s ring size. Classic pearl rings look fantastic with both white and yellow gold.

Many retailers and online stores sell classic pearl jewelry in sets. Not only is this great because you pay less for the set than if you purchased a necklace, earrings and bracelet separately, but buying a pearl jewelry set provides the added bonus that the pieces will match.

What to look for
No matter which style you choose, or whether you buy pearls from a local jewelry store, large retail chain or Internet store (which should offer adequate descriptions of what you’re buying along with a money-back guarantee), keep in mind these tips when you’re shopping for pearls and you won’t go wrong:
• You’ll pay more for larger pearls. In general, a larger pearl takes longer to form, and the chances of finding a perfectly round, large pearl are slim. After the 7.5-8mm mark for freshwater cultured pearls and akoya cultured pearls, the most popular pearl types, prices rise dramatically. A 6.5mm strand is both lovely and affordable—and perfect for young women.
• Pay attention to luster and surface. Pearls should have a high luster, or surface sheen, meaning they reflect light well. They should also be free from large blemishes such as chips and pits, although small blemishes are acceptable. An absolutely perfect strand is likely faux. Pearls are, after all, a natural product, and small variations are to be expected and do not detract from the pearls’ value.
• Round is the hands-down favorite shape. While baroque pearls are gorgeous, and button and coin pearls are modern and affordable, when it comes to classic pearls, round is still in. To check that pearls are uniformly round, ask the jeweler or read the Internet description. If you can handle the strand, roll it on a table. Matched pearls will roll smoothly.
• Thickness is important. Most pearls sold today are cultured pearls, and the best ones are formed in oysters or mussels that have been implanted with small, mother-of-pearl beads and mantle tissue or mantle tissue only and left in the water long enough for a sufficient coating of nacre to form. Avoid pearls that have been implanted with large plastic or glass beads or harvested prematurely; they will flake and peel easily.
• Pay attention to uniformity. Make sure that pearls in a piece of jewelry are the same size, color, shape and luster.
• Beware: Some jewelry makers try to hide smaller or imperfect pearls near the clasp.
• Choose color carefully. Pearls look best if they flatter the skin tone of the wearer.

Follow these pearl-buying tips, choose wisely, and your graduate will have a jewelry staple she’ll treasure forever.

A graduate of the Gemological Institute of America’s Graduate Pearls program, Amy Drescher is a fashion writer and accessories buyer for www.moonriverpearls.com. She welcomes your questions. Reach her at adrescher@moonriverpearls.com.

Are all Tahitian pearls black? What’s the difference between a cultured pearl and a natural pearl? Are freshwater pearls inferior to saltwater pearls? Are South Sea pearls really golden?

Good questions. With all the different pearl colors and types out there, it can be difficult to know just what you’re looking at. For those interested in buying pearls, or for gem enthusiasts who wish to learn more, here are answers to some of the most commonly asked questions about pearls.

Are All Tahitian Pearls Black?
Not only are Tahitian cultured pearls not exclusively black, they’re also not grown in Tahiti. Called “black” because of their exotic dark colors, Tahitian cultured pearls can also be gray, blue, green and brown. And they’re grown in the lagoons of small islands that are part of a group known as French Polynesia. Tahiti, the largest island, serves as the group’s center of commerce, and not as a pearl growing mecca.

Tahitian pearls are cultivated for about two years in Pinctada margaritifera cumingi, a large mollusk native to French Polynesia. One of the ways this unique oyster differs from other species is its interior shell color, which is dark. This so-called “black lipped” oyster also has black mantle edges—the “lips” that give this animal its descriptive name.

Today, the most sought-after Tahitian cultured pearls are dark green-gray to blue gray with rosé or purple overtones. Pearl colors are determined by several factors, including variations in the host oyster, color variation of the implanted donor mussel tissue, the number and thickness of nacre layers, and variations in growing environment such as temperature and water quality. Tahitians are most often variations of gray, black, green and blue, but other colors exist.

At an average size of 8mm-14mm, Tahitian cultured pearls—especially those specimens that are gem-quality and round—are very expensive. According to the latest information from the Gemological Institute of America, up to 40 percent of implanted black-lipped oysters produce a gem-quality cultured pearl, but only about 5 percent of the pearls they produce are round. And only 1-2 percent of the entire crop will result in round cultured pearls of the finest quality. No wonder a Tahitian pearl strand is so costly! If you want to wear Tahitian cultured pearls, one way to do so without breaking the bank is to choose a pendant-style necklace with a single pearl, pearl stud earrings, a single pearl ring, or baroque (non-symmetrical) pearls. These designs are every bit as exotic and a lot more affordable than a matched strand.

What’s the difference between a cultured pearl and a natural pearl?
Natural pearls are formed when an irritant, such as a parasite, makes its way into a pearl-producing animal such as an oyster or mollusk. To protect itself, the animal coats the irritant in nacre—a combination of organic substances that also makes up what we call mother-of pearl. Over time, the layers of nacre build up around the intruder and eventually form the organic gem we all know as the pearl.

Cultured pearls are formed in the same way as natural pearls, with one big difference: they get their start not by chance, but deliberately, when man intervenes with nature. To produce cultured pearls, a skilled technician, called a nucleator, induces the pearl-growing process by surgically placing an irritant—a mother-of-pearl bead and a piece of mantle tissue, usually—into a mollusk. The animal is then placed back into the water and monitored, cleaned, etc. until the pearl is ready to be harvested.

The Chinese have been culturing freshwater blister pearls (pearls that grow underneath the mantle on the inside of the animal’s shell) since the 13th century, but Kokichi Mikimoto, a Japanese man, is credited with developing modern pearl culturing techniques. By the early 1920s, Mikimoto was selling his cultured pearls worldwide.

Natural pearls can be very beautiful, but due to overfishing, pollution and other factors, they are a rare find indeed.  Thus, nearly all pearls sold today are cultured pearls. There are two main types: freshwater and saltwater. South Sea cultured pearls, Tahitian cultured pearls and akoya cultured pearls are all types of saltwater pearls. Cultured pearls of all types can be found in jewelry stores worldwide.

Are saltwater pearls better than freshwater pearls?
It depends on who you ask, but many pearl experts today agree that freshwater cultured pearls can rival the beauty of their saltwater cousins. Due to improvements in culturing techniques, freshwater pearl farmers are producing beautiful, round, lustrous pearls that are a vast improvement over the wrinkled, rice-krispie-shaped gems that typified the freshwater pearl crop of the not-so-distant past.

Produced mainly in China, freshwater pearls are often nucleated, or implanted, with mantle tissue only (rather than a mother-of-pearl bead). Because they do not contain a starter bead, tissue-nucleated freshwater pearls are 100% nacre. This gives them a beautiful luster and a durable surface that won’t easily flake or peel to reveal the inner bead. By contrast, pearls that are bead-nucleated and harvested too soon often have only a thin coating of nacre that will flake or peel. This is a major problem: Unlike many other gemstones, pearls cannot be polished back to perfection.

Freshwater cultured pearls come in many beautiful natural pastel colors including cream, white, yellow, orange, pink and lavender. (Universally flattering lavender pearls are very popular right now.) White pearls are bleached to enhance their natural shine. Black freshwater cultured pearls are treated with dye or heat to produce their inky color.

Overall, freshwater pearls are more plentiful than other pearl types, thus they are generally more affordable.

Are South Sea pearls really golden?
Yes. Pearls produced in the aptly named “gold-lipped” oyster (P. maxima) can be a gorgeous creamy yellow, referred to as “golden” in the trade. (The silver-lipped variety of P. maxima produces beautiful silver or white pearls.) Grown in the South Seas—which stretch from the southern coast of Southeast Asia to the northern coast of Australia—these pearls are grown in one of the biggest oysters used in pearl culturing. Because they can accept a larger bead and secrete nacre faster than their smaller counterparts, these big oysters produce large pearls of exceptional luster and beauty. South Sea pearls’ thick coating of nacre gives the gems a wonderful luster, or glow, that appears to come from deep within the pearl. The warm waters, abundant food supply and low pollution levels of the South Seas also help these oysters produce beautiful cultured pearls.

Although Australia produces 60% of the world’s South Sea cultured pearls, Indonesian farmers work more with the gold-lipped oyster, and thus produce more golden pearls. The silver-lipped variety produces equally beautiful pearls that come in white to silver and often have rosé, blue or green overtones. Aside from giving them a light wash, pearl farmers do not treat South Sea pearls after harvest.